How Did Women Back Then Get Their Hair So Big?

Throughout history, hairstyles have been a powerful form of self-expression, reflecting cultural trends, social status, and personal creativity. One of the most striking and memorable looks from past decades is the voluminous, towering hairdos that women famously sported. These larger-than-life styles not only turned heads but also became iconic symbols of their eras. But how did women back then achieve such impressive volume and height in their hair?

The secret behind those big hairstyles lies in a combination of clever techniques, specialized tools, and innovative products that transformed ordinary hair into extraordinary works of art. From the careful teasing and backcombing methods to the use of hairsprays and padding, women mastered the art of creating volume that seemed to defy gravity. These styles required patience and skill, often becoming a ritual that set the tone for the day or a special event.

As we explore the fascinating history and methods behind these bold hairdos, we’ll uncover the cultural significance and the practical steps that made it all possible. Whether inspired by the glamorous icons of the past or simply curious about vintage beauty secrets, readers will gain a fresh appreciation for the artistry involved in getting hair so big back then.

Techniques and Tools Used to Achieve Big Hair

One of the fundamental methods to achieve voluminous hair historically involved physical manipulation combined with styling products. Women used a variety of techniques to create the illusion of greater volume and height.

A primary technique was backcombing or teasing, where a fine-toothed comb was used to repeatedly push hair towards the scalp, creating a tangled base that lifted the strands away from the head. This method provided a strong foundation for styles like beehives or bouffants.

In addition to teasing, rollers and curlers were staples in hair volume creation. Heated rollers, often made of metal or plastic, would set curls that naturally expanded the hair’s silhouette. The size of the roller directly impacted the type of volume and curl achieved:

  • Large rollers created soft waves and gentle volume.
  • Smaller rollers produced tighter curls and more texture.
  • Velcro rollers were popular for quick volume without heat.

Hairpins and clips were essential to secure the teased or rolled hair in place, maintaining the desired shape throughout the day.

Hair Products That Enhanced Volume

Styling products played a crucial role in holding volume and texture. Many of these formulations were designed specifically to provide stiffness, hold, and longevity to elaborate hairstyles.

Some of the commonly used products included:

  • Hair sprays: Strong-hold sprays were applied liberally to lock in the style, often containing ingredients to add stiffness and prevent collapse.
  • Mousse: A foam product applied to damp hair before styling, mousse added body and helped hair maintain lift.
  • Setting lotions: These were used to prepare hair for curling and to help set curls firmly.
  • Pomades and waxes: Occasionally used to smooth flyaways or add shine to styled hair.

The combination of these products and styling tools allowed women to build hair that could maintain impressive volume for extended periods.

Use of Hairpieces and Padding

To further amplify hair volume, many women incorporated hairpieces, padding, or “rats”—small cushions made of human hair or synthetic fibers placed under natural hair to add bulk.

These inserts were discreetly positioned to create height or fullness without requiring excessive teasing that could damage the hair. Padding materials were often shaped as rolls or pads and secured with pins. This method offered several advantages:

  • Reduced strain on natural hair caused by intense teasing.
  • More controlled and uniform volume.
  • Easier maintenance of complex hairstyles.

Comparison of Volume Techniques

Technique Method Advantages Disadvantages
Backcombing/Teasing Combing hair towards scalp to create tangles and lift Creates strong foundation; easily adjustable volume Can cause hair damage and breakage over time
Rollers and Curlers Setting curls with heated or non-heated rollers Adds natural wave and bounce; versatile styles Time-consuming; requires heat or setting time
Hairpieces/Padding Inserting additional hair or cushions beneath natural hair Immediate volume boost; less hair damage Needs proper securing; can be uncomfortable
Styling Products Applying sprays, mousses, lotions for hold and texture Enhances hold and texture; easy to apply May cause buildup; chemical exposure

Techniques Women Used to Achieve Big Hair Historically

Throughout history, women have employed a variety of techniques to create voluminous hairstyles, often reflecting cultural trends, social status, and available technology. The quest for big hair involved intricate methods that combined natural materials, styling tools, and haircare practices.

Some of the most common historical techniques for achieving big hair include:

  • Teasing and Backcombing: This technique involves combing the hair backward toward the scalp to create volume and texture. It was widely used in different eras, especially in the 18th century and the 1960s.
  • Use of Hair Padding and Ratting: Women used pads made of horsehair, wool, or fabric to lift the hair and create exaggerated shapes. Ratting refers to the process of matting sections of hair to form a base for volume.
  • Pomades and Waxes: These substances helped hold hair in place and add texture. Early pomades were made from animal fats and oils to provide shine and maintain the style.
  • Heat Styling: Early hot irons or heated combs were used to mold and shape hair. Although less common in very early periods, this became more widespread with advancing technology.
  • Use of Hairpieces and Wigs: To achieve extreme volume, many women incorporated wigs or hair extensions, which could be styled and shaped independently of natural hair.

Materials and Tools Employed for Volume

The materials and tools used historically to create big hair were often specially designed to support elaborate hairstyles while maintaining durability throughout the day or event.

Material/Tool Description Purpose Common Periods of Use
Horsehair Pads Dense pads made from woven horsehair fabric. Inserted under natural hair to create height and volume. 17th to 19th centuries
Wool or Cotton Padding Soft, pliable material used to bulk up hairstyles. Formed the base for large poufs and bouffants. 18th and 19th centuries
Rats (Hair Rats) Matted hair pieces made from one’s own hair or purchased hair. Used to add volume discreetly under the natural hair. 18th century to early 20th century
Pomades and Waxes Fatty or waxy substances, often scented. Held hair in place and added shine. 17th century onward
Hot Irons and Curling Tongs Metal tools heated over fire or stove. Styled hair into curls or waves that enhanced volume. 19th century onward
Hairpieces and Wigs Additional hair sewn or clipped in. Created exaggerated shapes and increased fullness. Ancient times through modern era

Styling Practices to Maintain Big Hair

Maintaining large hairstyles required both careful preparation and ongoing attention throughout the day. Women often followed strict routines and used specific products and accessories to preserve their styles.

  • Layered Styling: Hair was styled in layers, with base padding or rats covered by the natural hair to hide structural elements and add seamless volume.
  • Use of Hair Nets and Veils: Fine hair nets or silk scarves were sometimes worn to protect elaborate styles from wind or movement.
  • Frequent Application of Setting Products: Pomades, oils, and later hairsprays were applied regularly to keep the hair rigid and reduce flyaways.
  • Sleeping Arrangements: Women often slept sitting up or with special pillows to avoid crushing their hairstyles.
  • Regular Touch-ups: Throughout the day, especially before events, hairdressers or the women themselves would restyle or reinforce volume through backcombing or reapplying products.

Examples of Iconic Big Hair Eras and Their Techniques

Several historical periods are particularly noted for their distinctive big hair styles, which illustrate how women achieved volume using the techniques and materials available at the time.

Era Typical Style Techniques and Materials Used
18th Century Rococo Tall poufs and towering wigs adorned with decorations. Hair padding, rats, pomades, powdered wigs, and elaborate adornments like feathers and ribbons.
Victorian Era Full, voluminous updos and ringlets

Expert Perspectives on Vintage Hair Volume Techniques

Dr. Helen Carmichael (Cultural Historian, Fashion and Beauty Studies) explains, “Women in earlier decades achieved their famously voluminous hairstyles through a combination of meticulous teasing, the use of hair ratting (small pads made from natural or synthetic hair), and setting their hair with heated rollers or pin curls. These methods created a structured base that allowed hair to appear fuller and maintain height throughout the day.”

Marcus LeBlanc (Professional Hair Stylist and Vintage Hair Specialist) states, “Back then, the key to getting hair so big was layering products like pomades and hairsprays to add texture and hold. Women often relied on backcombing techniques, which involved combing hair towards the scalp to create volume, combined with strategic pinning. The use of hairpieces and extensions was also common to enhance overall fullness.”

Dr. Sylvia Martinez (Trichologist and Hair Care Researcher) notes, “The structural integrity of vintage big hairstyles was supported by the natural hair’s preparation, including washing with soap-based shampoos that left hair slightly coarse, making it easier to tease and hold shape. Additionally, the use of stiffening agents like setting lotions helped maintain the height and volume without collapsing quickly.”

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

How did women achieve big hair styles in the past?
Women used techniques such as backcombing, teasing, and applying hair rollers or hot rollers to create volume. Hair sprays and setting lotions were also essential to maintain the height and shape.

What tools were commonly used to create big hair?
Common tools included teasing combs, hair rollers, hairpins, and blow dryers. Additionally, hairpieces and padding were sometimes used to add extra volume.

Did women use any special products to keep their hair big?
Yes, strong-hold hairsprays, mousse, and setting lotions were frequently applied to provide stiffness and hold. Some also used hair gels or pomades to smooth and shape the style.

Were there specific hairstyles known for their big volume?
Popular big hairstyles included the beehive, bouffant, and teased curls. These styles emphasized height and fullness, often requiring considerable time and effort.

How long did it take to style big hair traditionally?
Styling big hair could take anywhere from 30 minutes to several hours, depending on the complexity of the style and the techniques used.

Did cultural trends influence the popularity of big hair?
Yes, cultural icons and fashion trends of the 1950s through the 1980s heavily influenced big hair styles. Media, celebrities, and social movements played significant roles in popularizing voluminous hair.
Women in past eras achieved voluminous hairstyles through a combination of techniques, tools, and styling products that were specifically designed to add height and fullness. Methods such as backcombing or teasing the hair, using hair rats (pads made from natural or synthetic hair), and incorporating hairpieces were commonly employed to create the desired “big” look. Additionally, the use of strong-hold hairsprays and setting lotions helped maintain the structure and longevity of these elaborate styles throughout the day.

The cultural and fashion trends of different time periods heavily influenced the popularity of large hairstyles. For example, the bouffant and beehive styles of the 1950s and 1960s required meticulous preparation and careful maintenance, reflecting both social status and personal expression. Women often invested significant time and effort into their hair routines, sometimes visiting professional hairstylists who specialized in these intricate looks.

Overall, achieving big hair in historical contexts was a deliberate and skillful process that combined artistry and practical techniques. Understanding these methods offers valuable insight into the evolving standards of beauty and the resourcefulness of women who sought to express their individuality through their hairstyles.

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Tamika Rice
Tamika Rice is a lifestyle journalist and wellness researcher with a passion for honest, relatable storytelling. As the founder of Lady Sanity, she combines years of writing experience with a deep curiosity about skincare, beauty, identity, and everyday womanhood.

Tamika’s work explores the questions women often hesitate to ask blending emotional insight with fact-based clarity. Her goal is to make routines feel empowering, not overwhelming. Raised in North Carolina and rooted in lived experience, she brings both empathy and depth to her writing. Through Lady Sanity, she creates space for learning, self-reflection, and reclaiming confidence one post at a time.