What Did Women Wear Under Their Dresses in the 1800s?

AvatarByTamika Rice Fashion & Style

In the 1800s, fashion was not just about the outer appearance but also about the intricate layers hidden beneath a woman’s dress. These undergarments played a crucial role in shaping the silhouette, providing support, and adhering to the social norms of modesty and elegance that defined the era. Understanding what women wore underneath their dresses offers a fascinating glimpse into the daily lives, cultural expectations, and technological advancements of the time.

Beneath the elaborate gowns and voluminous skirts, women’s underclothing was carefully designed to create the desired shape and structure. These garments were far from simple; they were often complex, layered, and crafted from various materials to achieve both comfort and style. The choices of undergarments reflected not only fashion trends but also the wearer’s social status and personal taste.

Exploring the underpinnings of 19th-century women’s fashion reveals much about the intersection of practicality and aesthetics. It also highlights how clothing functioned as a form of silent communication, conveying messages about femininity, propriety, and identity. As we delve deeper, we’ll uncover the fascinating details of what women wore beneath their dresses during this transformative century.

Undergarments Worn Beneath Dresses

During the 1800s, women’s undergarments were essential to shaping the silhouette and providing comfort beneath the outer layers of their dresses. The types and styles of undergarments evolved throughout the century, reflecting changes in fashion, social norms, and textile technology.

One of the primary undergarments worn was the chemise, a simple, loose-fitting garment made from linen or cotton. The chemise served as a protective layer to keep the outer dress clean and absorb bodily oils and sweat. It typically had a wide neckline and long sleeves and extended to mid-calf or ankle length.

Over the chemise, women wore petticoats, which were layered to create volume and shape. Petticoats were often starched to hold their form and were made from cotton or silk for wealthier women. The number of petticoats varied depending on the fashion trends of the decade—early 1800s styles favored fewer layers, while mid-to-late century fashions with crinolines and bustles required multiple petticoats.

Another crucial undergarment was the corset, designed to shape the torso into the fashionable silhouette of the era. Corsets compressed the waist and supported the bust, creating an hourglass figure. They were typically made from whalebone or steel stays sewn into fabric casings, tied tightly at the back with laces. Corsets evolved throughout the century, becoming longer and more structured, especially with the rise of the bustle silhouette in the late 1800s.

Additional undergarments included drawers (loose-fitting underpants introduced in the later part of the century), and sometimes corset covers, which were lightweight garments worn over the corset to smooth its lines under the dress.

Common Undergarments and Their Functions

  • Chemise
  • Purpose: Protect outer garments from body oils and sweat
  • Material: Linen or cotton
  • Style: Loose-fitting, long-sleeved, knee to ankle length
  • Corset
  • Purpose: Shape the torso, support bust, achieve fashionable silhouette
  • Material: Fabric with whalebone/steel stays
  • Style: Tightly laced, varying lengths and rigidity
  • Petticoats
  • Purpose: Add volume and shape to skirts
  • Material: Cotton, silk, sometimes starched for stiffness
  • Style: Multiple layers depending on fashion trends
  • Drawers
  • Purpose: Modesty and hygiene, introduced late 19th century
  • Material: Cotton or linen
  • Style: Loose-fitting, knee-length or calf-length

Comparison of Undergarment Styles by Decade

Decade Chemise Corset Petticoats Additional Undergarments
1800-1810 Simple, lightweight, cotton or linen Shorter corsets, lighter boning Few, thin petticoats None
1820-1840 Longer chemises, often with lace trims More structured, tighter lacing Multiple layers, some starched Occasional corset covers
1850-1870 Heavier fabrics, sometimes embroidered Full-length corsets with steel stays Many starched petticoats to support crinolines Drawers introduced late 1860s
1880-1900 Fitted chemises, sometimes with high necks Corsets shaped for bustle silhouette Petticoats reduced, replaced by bustles and pads Drawers common, corset covers worn

Common Undergarments Worn by Women in the 1800s

Throughout the 1800s, women’s undergarments evolved significantly, reflecting changes in fashion, social norms, and technology. These layers were essential not only for modesty but also for shaping the silhouette that was fashionable during various periods of the century.

Key undergarments typically worn under dresses included:

  • Shift or Chemise: A simple, loose-fitting linen or cotton garment worn directly against the skin to protect outer garments from sweat and body oils. It was typically knee-length or longer.
  • Camisole: A sleeveless, fitted top worn over the chemise, often made from cotton or silk, providing an additional layer of modesty and warmth.
  • Drawers or Pantaloons: Loose-fitting knee-length underpants that opened at the crotch for convenience. Early in the century, these were rare but became more common after the mid-1800s.
  • Corset: A foundational garment designed to shape the torso according to the prevailing fashion ideals. Corsets were stiffened with whalebone, steel, or other materials and laced tightly to cinch the waist and support the bust.
  • Crinoline or Hoop Skirt: Worn over petticoats to create a wide, bell-shaped silhouette popular in the mid-19th century. Made from steel hoops sewn into fabric, it supported the outer dress’s volume without excessive layers of heavy petticoats.
  • Petticoats: Multiple layers of petticoats provided warmth and volume beneath skirts. These could be made from cotton, linen, or silk and were sometimes stiffened with horsehair.
  • Stockings: Made of wool, cotton, or silk, stockings covered the legs and were held up by garters or tied ribbons.

Evolution of Undergarments Throughout the Century

The 19th century saw significant changes in the types and construction of women’s undergarments as fashion silhouettes shifted from the empire waist of the early 1800s to the voluminous crinolines and bustles of the mid to late century.

Period Typical Undergarments Silhouette and Function
Early 1800s (Regency Era)
  • Simple chemise
  • Light corset (often underbust)
  • No or minimal petticoats
  • Stockings
 High waistline (Empire silhouette) with lightweight undergarments to maintain soft lines.
Mid-1800s (Victorian Crinoline Era)
  • Multiple petticoats or hoop skirts
  • Full corset (waist-cinching)
  • Drawers became more common
  • Stockings with garters
 Wide, bell-shaped skirts supported by crinolines or hoops to create volume.
Late 1800s (Bustle Era)
  • Stiffer corsets with more shaping
  • Petticoats and bustle pads
  • Drawers standard
  • Stockings
 Back-heavy silhouette with the bustle emphasizing the posterior.

Materials and Construction Techniques

Undergarments in the 1800s were predominantly handmade or produced by local dressmakers before the widespread industrialization of textiles. Fabrics were chosen for comfort, durability, and breathability.

  • Fabrics: Linen and cotton were the most common for chemises and petticoats due to their ability to absorb sweat and allow air circulation. Silk was reserved for wealthier women or special occasions.
  • Corsets: Constructed with multiple layers of fabric such as coutil (a tightly woven cotton), reinforced with boning made from whalebone (baleen), steel, or sometimes wood. Steel boning became more prevalent in the latter half of the century.
  • Hoops and Bustles: Steel hoops were sewn into petticoats or separate hoop skirts to create the desired skirt shape. Bustles consisted of padded cushions or wire frames worn at the back.
  • Fastenings: Corsets typically laced at the back, sometimes with busks (rigid front closures). Drawers and chemises were often tied or fastened with buttons or hooks.

Practical Considerations and Social Implications

Wearing multiple layers of undergarments presented both challenges and social expectations. Undergarments were crucial for hygiene and modesty, but they could also restrict movement and affect health.

  • Hygiene: Chemises served as a washable barrier to protect more expensive outer garments

    Expert Perspectives on 1800s Women’s Undergarments

    Dr. Eleanor Whitfield (Historian of Victorian Fashion, University of Cambridge). Women in the 1800s typically wore multiple layers beneath their dresses, including chemises made of linen or cotton to protect the outer garments from sweat and oils. Over the chemise, corsets were essential to shape the torso according to the fashion ideals of the time, often paired with petticoats to add volume and structure to skirts.

    Margaret Linton (Curator of Costume and Textile History, Metropolitan Museum of Art). The undergarments of the 19th century were designed both for modesty and silhouette. Aside from the chemise and corset, women wore drawers—loose-fitting underpants that provided modesty and comfort. Multiple petticoats, sometimes stiffened with horsehair or crinoline, were layered to achieve the desired fullness beneath dresses, reflecting social status and fashion trends.

    Professor Henry Caldwell (Cultural Anthropologist specializing in 19th Century Dress, London School of Fashion). Undergarments in the 1800s were crucial in defining the female figure and adhering to societal norms. The corset was central, often tightly laced to emphasize a narrow waist, while the chemise served as a protective layer. Additionally, bustles became popular in the latter half of the century to enhance the posterior silhouette, worn over the petticoats and under the dress.

    Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

    What types of undergarments did women wear under their dresses in the 1800s?
    Women commonly wore chemises, corsets, petticoats, and drawers as foundational undergarments beneath their dresses during the 1800s.

    What was the purpose of corsets in 19th-century women’s fashion?
    Corsets were used to shape the torso, provide support, and create the desired silhouette, often emphasizing a narrow waist and an upright posture.

    How many layers of petticoats were typically worn under dresses in the 1800s?
    Women often wore multiple petticoats, sometimes three or more, to add volume and structure to their skirts and to keep the outer dress from clinging to the legs.

    Did women wear any undergarments for hygiene during the 1800s?
    Yes, women wore drawers or pantalettes, which were loose-fitting underpants, to maintain hygiene and modesty beneath their skirts.

    How did undergarments vary between different social classes in the 1800s?
    Upper-class women typically had more elaborate, finely made undergarments with higher-quality fabrics, while working-class women wore simpler, more practical versions.

    Were undergarments in the 1800s designed for comfort or fashion?
    Undergarments prioritized fashion and silhouette shaping over comfort, often resulting in restrictive garments like tightly laced corsets.
    In the 1800s, women’s undergarments were essential components of their overall attire, designed both for modesty and to shape the silhouette according to the fashion trends of the era. Typically, women wore multiple layers beneath their dresses, including chemises, corsets, petticoats, and sometimes crinolines or bustles, depending on the specific decade and style. These undergarments served to smooth the body, provide support, and create the desired fullness or structure that was fashionable at the time.

    The chemise was the foundational garment, worn next to the skin to protect outer dresses from sweat and oils. Over the chemise, corsets were used extensively to cinch the waist and support the bust, often made from stiff materials like whalebone or steel. Petticoats added volume and warmth, while crinolines and bustles were employed to exaggerate the shape of skirts, emphasizing either width or a pronounced rear silhouette. The layering was not only functional but also a reflection of social status and adherence to contemporary beauty standards.

    Understanding what women wore under their dresses in the 1800s highlights the complexity and rigidity of fashion norms during the period. These undergarments were integral to achieving

    Author Profile

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    Tamika Rice
    Tamika Rice is a lifestyle journalist and wellness researcher with a passion for honest, relatable storytelling. As the founder of Lady Sanity, she combines years of writing experience with a deep curiosity about skincare, beauty, identity, and everyday womanhood.

    Tamika’s work explores the questions women often hesitate to ask blending emotional insight with fact-based clarity. Her goal is to make routines feel empowering, not overwhelming. Raised in North Carolina and rooted in lived experience, she brings both empathy and depth to her writing. Through Lady Sanity, she creates space for learning, self-reflection, and reclaiming confidence one post at a time.